Upper Dolpo Trek
Upper Dolpo Trekking takes you to the mysterious highlands of far-west Nepal, beyond globally admired Phoksundo Lake and Shey
Ba-Yul, the hidden land of Dolpo, was first settled by Rokpa farmers and Drokpa nomads from Tibet in the 10th century. It is one of the highest inhabited places on earth, with scattered fortress-like villages and monasteries nestling amongst mountains of stark, ascetic beauty. Though part of Nepal today, Dolpo remains culturally and economically firmly tied to Tibet, the people of this desolate area are cut of from their southern neighbors by snow-covered passes for much of the year. This is fascinating and difficult country to travel in.
Most of Dolpo is protected by SheyPhoksundo National Park. It is bounded in the east and south by Dhaulagiri and ChurenHimal ranges and in the west by the Jumla district. Dolpo has been bypassed by development and until recently by tourism. Although a few Anthropologists and geographers had explored the region, the entire district was closed to foreigners until 1989, when southern parts of Dolpo was opened to organized trekking groups.
Peter Matthiessen’s the Snow Leopard and David Snellgrove’s Himalayan Pilgrimage has contributed to the mystique and attraction of Dolpo. Both writers visited the SheyGompa, to the north of the Phoksumdo Lake, in inner Dolpo. This is the goal of most trekkers but Upper Dolpo trekking will take you even further into this mysterious land.
Dolpo is Bon-po country, where people practice a shamanistic religion predating Tibetan Buddhism.
Much of Bon-po symbolism is the opposite of Buddhist practice. You should walk to the right of ancient mud chortens, which are inscribed with swastikas with their arms pointing in the opposite direction to the Buddhist chant of “Om Mani Padme Hum”, the Bon-pos chant ‘Om Ma Tri Mu Ye Sa Le Du”, in Tibetan means “in clarity unite’.
Phoksundo Lake
Phoksundo Lake is spectacular. Tt is 4.8km long, 1.8km wide and said to be 650m deep. It is known for its aquamarine color a greenish blue similar to a special Tibetan turquoise .There is no aquatic life in the lake, which helps to make the waters brilliantly clear. If you toss a rock in, you can watch it for a long time as it sinks to the bottom. According to legend, Phoksundo Lake was formed by a spiteful female demon.
In Buddhist Himalaya, David Snellgrove recounts how the demon was fleeing from the saint Padmasambhava and gave the village people a turquoise after they promised not to tell that she had passed by. Padmasambhava turned the turquoise into a lump of dung, which upset the local people so much they revealed the demon’s whereabouts. She, in return caused a flood. It is said you can see the remains of a village below the lake’s surface.
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 02: Sightseeing tour of Boudhanath, Pashupatinath&Patan
Day 03: Fly to Nepalgunj
Day 04: Fly to Juphal (2,500m), Trek to Dunai (2,100m)
Day 05: Trek to Chepka (2,670m) (6-7 hours, 770m ascent)
Day 06: Trek to Renje (3,010m) (5-6hours, 500m ascent, 320m descent)
Day 07: Trek to Ringmo (2,650m) (6-7 hours, 880m ascent, 90m descent)
Day 08: Rest and Exploration
Day 09: Trek to Chunemba (3,630m) (5-6 hours, 570m ascent, 560m descent)
Day 10: Trek to LarTsa (4,120m) (4-5½ hours, 570m ascent, 80m descent)
Day 11: Trek to Mendok Din (4,610m) (2-3 hours, 520m ascent, 130m descent)
Day 12: Trek to SheyGompa (4,390m) (7-8½ hours, 1,040m ascent, 1,240m descent)
Day 13: Rest and Exploration
Day 14: Trek to Namgung (4,430m) (6-7½ hours, 1,029m ascent, 900m descent)
Day 15: Trek to Karang (4,050m) (5-6 hours, 150m ascent, 530m descent)
Day 16: Trek to Mugaon (4,100m) (6-7½ hours, 490m ascent, 550m descent)
Day 17: Trek to Shimen (4,010m) (7-8½ hours, 1,040 m ascent, 890m descent)
Day 18: Trek to Tinje (4,150m) (7-8 hours, 550m ascent, 170m descent)
Day 19: Trek to Rakpa (4,530m) (7-8 hours, 550m ascent, 170m descent)
Day 20: Trek to Chharka (4,920m)
Day 21: Trek to Norbulung (4,750m) (6-7 hours, 820m ascent, 190m descent)
Day 22: SangdaPhedi (5,460m) (7-8 hours, 790m ascent, 440m descent)
Day 23: Trek to Sangda (3,700m) (7-8 hours, 460m ascent, 1,860m descent)
Day 24: Trek to Dhagarjun (3,290m) (7-8 hours, 970m ascent, 1,380m descent)
Day 25: Trek to Jhomson (2,670m) and Fly to Pokhara (3 hours, 870m ascent, 690m descent)
Day 26: Drive or Fly to Kathmandu
Day 27: Depart Kathmandu
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
It is a panoramic thrill flying into Kathmandu on a clear day. The views of snow-capped mountain peaks sprawling down below you are almost ecstatic, beginning a whole chain of memorable experiences that stay with you for a long, long time. A representative and driver from our office will meet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel. The representative will help you check into your designated hotel. At the hotel, you will be briefed about your daily activities.Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Day 02: Sightseeing tour of Boudhanath, Pashupatinath andPatan
Kathmandu is the historical and cultural heart of Nepal and has been a popular destination for tourists ever since Nepal opened its doors to visitors. The city presents a wonderful mix of Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism and Western influence. There will be a guided tour to the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal Boudhanath and after that to the most popular Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva;Pashupatinath. We take a tour to Patan or Lalitpur (The City of Artisans), which is 5km away from Kathmandu. We walk through Patan Durbar Square, and delight in the architectural wonders of Malla era. Mahaboudha Temple, Kumbeshwor Temple, Krishna Temple and Golden Temple are the major attractions at the square.Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Fly to Nepalgunj
We fly from Kathmandu to Nepalganj, which lies in the southwest part of the Terai, right on the border to India. After checking into our hotel, we might visit the BageshwariMandir, a temple to honour Goddess Kali. Nepalgunj is known for its local bazaars, which have goods with cheap price rates. Here, not only do we see people from all over Nepal, but also people from Tibet and India. They all come here for trade. Overnight stay in Nepalgunj.
Day 04: Fly to Juphal (2,500m), Trek to Dunai (2,100m)
We take an early morning flight to Juphal. Dolpo flights are always scheduled early in the morning. This is because high winds in the ThuloBheri Valley begin around 10 am, making later flights impossible. Once we arrive at Juphal (2,500m), we start out on the short walk from Juphal to Dunai. We walk downhill through meadows and past a few houses to the small hotels at Kala Gaura (2,090m). From here, we follow the river trail upstream to Dunai. We camp near Dunai and explore this bustling little hill town for the rest of the afternoon. Overnight stay in Dunai.
Day 05: Trek to Chepka (2,670m) (6-7 hours, 770m ascent)
We start trekking from Dunai, cross the big steel suspension bridge and turn west, following the trail past the hospital, and then it’s a level walk along the bank of the ThuloBheri to its confluence with the SuliGaad at 2,070m. We follow the new trail north up the east bank of the SuliGaad to a collection of teashops run by the wives of army personnel in Dunai. Another hour of walking takes us to KalRupi and then on to Raktang (2,260m). We cross to the west bank and trek past numerous goths and horse pastures, over a ridge to the rough stone houses of Jyalhasa, a wintering spot for the people of Ringmo. We keep walking upstream to another bridge, cross it to the east bank, and make our way past some crude teashops and a bridge over a side stream, the AnkheKhola, at 2,460m. The trail moves up and down through grass and ferns to a trail junction. The fork is the old trail leading to the army and national park post at Ankhe, and on to the old trail that passes the villages of Rahagoan and Parela, high on the ridge above. These three villages have a strange name connection;Parela (parela means eye-lashes), Rahagoan (raha means eyebrow) and Ankhe (ankha is eye). The trail Phoksundo Lake climbs over a ridge at 2,710m then descends on a rocky path to Chepka (2n670m), which is inhabited by three brothers and consists of collection of interconnected shops, rakshi (alchohol) stalls and lodges. We camp here or at another good spot beside a huge rock in walnut grove about 20 minutes beyond Chepka. Overnight stay in Chepka.
Day 06: Trek to Renje (3,010m) (5-6hours, 500m ascent, 320m descent)
We continue on the new trail, which stays near the river, climbing over a small ridge ,then crossing to the west side to avoid a large ridge and returning to the east side an hour later near a national park camping ground. Alongside the river at 2,900m, the trail becomes a collection of rocks and sticks forming a dyke along the river bank. The trail makes several more ups and downs through forests of firs and larches as it continues upstream to a bridge that leads to nine houses comprising the village of Renje on the opposite side of the river at 3,010m. We camp at a good camp site here or another about five minutes further on. Overnight stay in Renje.
Day 07: Trek to Ringmo (2,650m) (6-7 hours, 880m ascent, 90m descent)
We follow the SuliGaad valley, which turns eastward and becomes even steeper and narrower. We then climb over a ridge and descends to a wooden bridge then continue along the ups and downs along the valley floor to the confluence of the SuliGaad with the PungmoKhola. From here, the trail to Phoksundo Lake and Sheygompa follows the west bank of the river. We climb through a forest of big cedar to a good camp site and then on to Palam (3,710m), a winter settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. The houses are almost buried in the sandy soil. The entrance station for SheyPhoksundo National Park is at the south end of the village. After our park entrance ticket is examined, we may be subjected to a baggage inspection-ostensibly for drugs and stolen art objects. It’s very peculiar formality in this remote locale. We continue on the route, which switchbacks steeply on a sandy trail through open country to an elevation of 3m300m, then we start up another steep set of dusty switchbacks to a ridge at 3m780m. From the ridgme there are distant views of a spectacular 200m high waterfall, the highest in Nepal. The trail makes a steep descent in birch forests to the upper reaches of the brilliantly clear, rushing waters of the PhoksundoKhola. Then we climb gently to Ringmo village, a picturesque settlement of flat-roofed stone houses with lots of mud -plastered chortens and maniwalls. Just below Ringmo, we cross a bridge and follow a trail north to the ranger station at Phoksumdo Lake (3,730m). We continue to the shores of the lake near the point where the PhoksundoKhola flows out of the lake. There are national park camping grounds on both sides of the river on the south-east shore of the lake. Park rules prohibit us from camping in other places. Overnight stay in Ringmo.
Day 08: Rest and exploration
A trail leads from the lakeside through juniper trees to the white Pal SentanThasoonChholinggompa, a ramshackle Bon-pogompa overlooking the lake that is said to have been built 60 generations ago. There are five other private gompas in various houses of small monastic community near the lake. The insides of the temples contain dusty Buddhist paintings and statues, but the trappings also reflect the animistic elements of the Bon-po religion, so some of the chapels are reminiscent of an ancient witch’s cavern. A donation to the ragtag collection of dirty monks will gain us entrance to the gompas. Our Sherpas will be equally fascinated by the strange iconography and practice of the Bon-po religion.Overnight stay in Ringmo.
Day 09: Trek to Chunemba (3,630m) (5-6 hours, 570m ascent, 560m descent)
From our campsite, near Ringmo on the southern end of Phoksundo Lake, the trail contours on a rocky ledge as it skirts the western lip of the lake. In places, it’s precariously suspended on a gangway of wood supported on pegs driven into crevices in the rocks. As we cross a stream, look up at the glacier descending from the upper slopes of Kanjeralwa (6,612m). We then climb to a crest at 4,060m for a spectacular view of the lake with the snowy peaks of Sonam Kang in the background. The trail makes a step and dusty descent through birches and blue pines to the westernmost edge of the lake at 3,630m where the PhoksundoKhola enters. The route now heads west, up along a wide valley. We follow an indistinct trail through thorn bushes and scrub trees, crisscrossing boggy marshes and tributaries of PhoksundoKhola. We camp in a forest of blue pines at Chunemba, an undeveloped national park camping ground at 3,630m. Overnight stay in Chunemba.
Day 10: Trek to LarTsa (4,120m) (4-5½ hours, 570m ascent, 80m descent)
We begin the day along the level path that now heads north through a glacial valley. We then cross to the east bank of PhoksundoKhola. We follow the main valley for another hour to Kang Gompa. We climb steeply from Kang Gompa and stay on the grassy ridge. It’s a long climb up the ridge past a few groves of birch trees. There are spectacular mountain views with SheyShikar (6,139m) and Kang Chunne (6,443m) dominating the skyline to the west. We continue on a crest at 4,200m then the route descends gently on a rocky trail to LarTsa, a camp site besides the river at 4,120m. It’s possible to continue walking, but we have now ascended more than 500m in a day and should spend the night at Lartsa for acclimatization.Overnight stay in LarTsa.
Day 11: Trek to Mendok Din (4,610m) (2-3 hours, 520m ascent, 130m descent)
We cross a new bridge and climb to the top of a scree slope at 4,490m, then make our way up a grassy ridge to a crest at 4,640m. We contour and then drop gently into Mendok Din (Flower valley). We again climb alongside a stream to a campsite at 4,610m. You are almost certain to spot a herd of blue sheep on the slopes above the camp. Overnight stay in Mendok Din.
Day 12: Trek to SheyGompa (4,390m) (7-8½ hours, 1,040m ascent, 1240 descent)
We continue on the route that follows the upper reaches of the PhoksumdoKhola, and then we turn north towards the peak of RiwoDrugdra (Crystal Mountain). There is a choice of trails here. We follow the more scenic pilgrim route across the Sehu La to the west of Crystal Mountain, making a kora (circumambulation) of this sacred peak. The Dolma trail turns north soon after camp while the pilgrim trail starts up a steep scree slope on the opposite side of a stream that flows from the north. After a long pull to Sehu La (also known as Mendok Ding La) at 5,160m the trail descends a scree slope to a grassy meadow besides a stream valley and begins a series of long ascents and descends across ridges in and out of side valleys as it traverses around Crystal Mountain. After a steep, rough climb to a crest at 5,010m and another at 4,860m, we begin the descent to the Tar valley. Soon after the route reaches grassy slopes, a side trail leads to Tsakang, a gompa said to be 800years that is perched dramatically on the side of a cliff. The final descent is on a wide trail to a campsite in a large meadow near a few huts of nomads at 4,310, just below Sheygompa. Overnight stay in SheyGompa.
Day 13: Rest and Exploration
Cross the river on a log bridge and climb past a big Chorten and a huge field of mani stones to the Sheygompa compound at 4,390m. The gompa itself is not large, and there are no artifacts or paintings of note inside. Although the building is said to be 800 years old, the wall paintings are relatively recent, probably done in 1970s. The statues on the altar are of Guru Rinpoche, Sakyamuni and Milarepa. The gompa also houses an ancient Tibetan scroll that describes the myth of Crystal Mountain and Sheygompa. According to the inscription, there is a holy lake in a crater among the mountains that surrounds Shey. When a pilgrim makes nine circumambulations of this lake, the water turns milky. A sip of this milk and the pilgrim can see Mt Kailash in the distance. The ones, who don’t need a day of rest, can try to find this lake.Overnight stay in SheyGompa.
Day 14: Trek to Namgung (4,430m) (6-7½ hours, 1,029m ascent, 900m descent)
We trek east from Sheygompa and across the Shey La (5,010m). Here, we turn north and descend before climbing again to Namgung (4,430m). Overnight stay in Namgung.
Day 15: Trek to Karang (4,050m) (5-6 hours, 150m ascent, 530m descent)
We traverse high above the NamgungKhola to Karang (4,050m). It’s also possible to descend to Saldang on the banks of the river, but this village is of little interest. Overnight stay in Karang.
Day 16: Trek to Mugaon (4,100m) (6-7½ hours, 490m ascent, 550m descent)
We descend to TorakSumdo (3670m), the confluence of the Namgung and Polangkholas, and cross to the northern bank. We then climb to Yangergompa at 3750m and trek along the river side valley. We camp at one of the campsites along the side of the stream at about 4100m before Mugaon. Overnight stay in Mugaon.
Day 17: Trek to Shimen (4,010m) (7-8½ hours, 1,040 m ascent, 890m descent)
We continue up the valley to Mugaon and climb towards the Mushi La at 5,030m. Then we descend towards Shimen village. We end the day at a good campsite in pastures above the village at 4,010m. Overnight stay in Shimen.
Day 18: Trek to Tinje (4,150m) (7-8 hours, 550m ascent, 170m descent)
We drop down to Shimen village at 3,870m and make a long trek upriver through Pha (4,090m) to Tinje (4,150m). Ovenight stay in Tinje.
Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
Day 19: Trek to Rakpa (4,530m) (7-8 hours, 550m ascent, 170m descent)
We trek past the runway of mysterious Tinje airport to a trail junction at 4,130m, where a high route leads to Tarap. We continue southward to a campsite on the banks of the river at Rakpa (4,530m). Overnight stay in Rakpa.
Day 20: Trek to Chharka (4,920m)
We begin our day with a long climb to the Chharka La (4,920m). We continue on the trail descending along the side of the valley, then make a big drop into a side valley at 4,290m. We then make a long traverse down to the picturesque village of Chharka on the banks of Barbung Kola at 4,120m. Overnight stay in Chharka.
Day 21: Trek to Norbulung (4,750m) (6-7 hours, 820m ascent, 190m descent)
Another Climb to a crest at 4,380m begins in this day. We then descend again to a river. We follow the right fork southward, climbing in and out of side valleys on a rough trail. The valley narrows then emerge into a big meadow and climb to our campsite at Norbulung (4750m). Overnight stay in Norbulung.
Day 22: SangdaPhedi (5,460m) (7-8 hours, 790m ascent, 440m descent)
We begin the day climbing to a yak pasture at MolumSumna (4,860m) and on to a crest at 5,130m. We then make a long traverse across meadows to the foot of the Sangda La, then a long, steep final climb to the pass at 5,460m. Switchbacks descend down to our camp site by a stream at 5,100m. Overnight stay in SangdaPherdi.
Day 23: Trek to Sangda (3,700m) (7-8 hours, 460m ascent, 1,860m descent)
We climb to a lower Sangda La at 4,990m, then descend through loose shale towards the village of SangdaGhunsa (4,190m). We drop to the ChalungKhola, crossing it at 3,750m, and then climb steeply up the opposite bank. A long high traverse leads to a cairn at 4,090m, we then come to a set of steep switchbacks descends to a stream at 3,580m. We do another climb to the compact settlement of Sangda, where we end a long day at 3,700m.Overnight stay in Sangda.
Day 24: Trek to Dhagarjun (3,290m) (7-8 hours, 970m ascent, 1,380m descent)
We climb the hill behind Sangda and spend most of the day making a high traverse, crossing nine ridges to a final crest at 4,280m. We then descend into the Kali Gandaki valley, traversing under high cliffs and descending to the large village of Dhagarjun (3,290m).Overnight stay in Dhagarjun.
Day 25: Trek to Jhomson (2,670m) and Fly to Pokhara (3hours, 870m ascent, 690m descent)
We climb to a ridge at 3,360m and make a final descent on a challenging trail of loose rocks to Jomsom at 2,670m. We take an early flight from Jomsom to Pokhara – a fantastic way to round off the trek, flying right along the Kali Gandaki Gorge between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. In Pokhara, we check into the Hotel, get the dust of the last three weeks washed off and head out for a nice dinner. Overnight stay in Pokhara.
Day 26: Drive or Fly Kathmandu
We either take a 35 minutes flight or a six hour drive to Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu, you can indulge in independent activities of your choice.Overnight stay in Kathmandu.
Day 27: Depart Kathmandu
Our Nepalese support team will take you to the airport for your flight home. On the other hand, if you prefer to stay longer, you can go for short tours such as Wildlife Safari at National parks, Rafting, Tibet tours, Mountain biking, etc. Contact us for further information.
T-house/Camping Trek includes accommodation in lodge, guide, porters and all meals
USD …. per person on twin sharing – minimum of 2 participants
• Note: Single room supplement charge is applicable for Kathmandu Hotel only. During trek, as per the availability we shall provide single/double or dormitory room. In case of special requirement, we shall provide single with an additional room surcharge during trek.
• Airport Pick and Drop by private vehicle
• 3 nights’ accommodation at 3 star hotels in Kathmandu and 1 night in Pokharaon twin/double sharing with breakfast
• Guide sightseeing tour in Kathmandu with inclusive of monuments entry fees.
• Accommodation during trek available everyday en-route (T-House and Hotel)
• All meals during trek in Local Lodge (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
• English speaking local expert guide (ratio: – 2 guide: 4/5 member, 3 guide: 10/15 member)
• Local porters during trek (ratio: – 1 porter = 2 member)
• Upper Dolpa Restricted Area &Phoksundo National Park Permit
• Annapurna Conservation Area permits fees
• Trekkers’ Information Management System fees (TIMS)
• Flight Kathmandu/Nepalgunj/Kathmandu&Nepalgunj /Juphal (domestic flight)
• Flight Jomsom/Pokhara(domestic flight)
• Ground transportation/Airport transfers with an escort by Private Vehicle/Tourist bus
• Equipment clothing for porter & staffs
• Insurance for all staff & porters
• All applicable government tax
• Nepal visa – Multiple Entrée 30 days – USD 40
• International flight
• Lunch & dinner during Kathmandu and PokharaHotel stay
• Extra baggage charges (All together only 15 kg is allow for porter)
• Personal gears & clothing (available on hire in Kathmandu)
• Tips for guides, porter, any expenses incurred in emergency evacuation/road block due to any reason, table drinks, snacks while walking
• Any other tours, transfer and service other than mentioned above
• Your insurance and medical Expenses