Lapche Valley Trek
– Sacred Spot –
Lapche Kang Pilgrimage Tour takes you to the phenomenal visit of more than 50 monasteries and hermitages which are mostly caves in mountains. The Lapche Mountain, belonging to the sacred triad of Jambudipa as mentioned in the Puranas (Ancient Holy texts), is the magnet of this tour. This tour takes you to the ancient roots of Buddhism in Nepal.
Lapche Kang Pilgrimage Tour’s center of attraction is the Lapche Monastery, which is as much sacred for the Hindus as for the Buddhists. The monastery showcases the religious and spiritual heritage in the grand architecture that is very old. Also called ChuraGepheling, the monastery stands atop a tree-covered ridge that commands the impressive view of the confluence of two rivers. In Buddhism, the confluences are highly charged with spiritual significance. The fifty or so monasteries and caves of this area are related to Milarepa, a tenth and eleventh century Buddhist sage and poet who served as the spiritual figurehead of the Kagyu-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The area lies in the border between Nepal and Tibet.
The Lapche Kang (Valley) Tour is not just for the followers and believers in Buddhist belief. The place offers an enviable trekking route in the high mountain region. There are plenty of pleasant sights and serenity to take in here. Even a detached traveler finds a lot to appreciate the art and architecture of the monasteries and caves, the scenes of surrounding mountains and other natural formations of this high alpine region. It is as much a Buddhist pilgrimage as a charming destination for travelers.
Furthermore, you can experience an adventure quest in the region if you follow a two week circumambulation route around the area. In this case, you will cross as many as seven high mountain passes. If you want to choose an easier option, the other route takes about 4 days. Even when following this convenient route, you will not lose any of the spiritual and scenic treasures of the area. The choice is entirely yours. Whether you are a pilgrim or an ordinary traveler, choose the route that suits your time, health and your interest.
Now for something completely different, close to the Tibetan border. So many people seeing on photos have commented that the Lapche Valley looks like the land of the Lord of the rings, that some quotes from that famous epic seem in order.
The Lapche valley is virtually the last frontier of Nepal to be opened to outsiders. So unknown is this valley that there is little information about it other than it was once a small trading route. Apart from its remoteness, its most outstanding claim to fame is that it was one of Milarepa’s retreats. The great sage is thought to have sat in meditation in a cave high up near the headwaters of the valley. The trek will appeal to Buddhist pilgrims, botanists, birds and animal seekers and trekkers looking for a remote “Lost horizon” with challenging trails.
Within sight of the frontier, the cave shrine of Milarepa has long been an objective for especially devoted Buddhist pilgrims, such are the hardships to be endured in order to reach this sacred spot. Protected by the cirque of spires of the Raling and PamariHimals, the valley is lost to the outside to this day. In the deep canyon of the LapcheKhola, the al-enclosing mountains almost shut out the light of day.
Apart from the extreme remoteness of the valley, there are no specific factors other than the periodic vertiginous exposure to deter anyone on this trekking route. The valley is fairly kind to those affected by high altitude, since for campers the height can be gained in comfortable increments almost all the way from Lamabagar.
This route is only a camping option for the time being and likely to remain so far a while. Bear in mind that the region has seen almost no outsiders and lacks any kind of amenity found on popular trails. That means no lodges, no tea houses, and no medical facilities. This is a wild and rugged trek.
It might occasionally be possible to hire ponies in Upper Lapche for a different kind of day trip but ridding a yak is only for those who have succeeded (or failed) at the Calgary Stampede.
There is basically only one way in and out of the valley, unless you are inclined to sneak across the border into Tibet, a very unwise option. The trekking part takes 7- 8 days, with an extra day for relaxing and exploring around the Milarepa shrine and border area. In addition, days must be added for the drives in and out Kathmandu to Lamabagar. Much of the trail is poorly maintained and landslips, exposed areas and dense forest tangles impede progress. The camps depend on having enough space for the group size, water sources and the rate of progress of the trekkers. Some hikers manage to get beyond Rock Camp to the Lunch meadows but it’s a really tough plan for most trekkers fresh-faced from beyond Nepal.
The Summary of Lapche Valley Trek
Start: Lamabagar(2,100m)
End: Lamabagar(2,100m)
Distance: Approx. 65 – 75 Km (40 – 46 miles)
Maximum altitude: Lapche (3,800m/12,465ft.)
Transportation: Bus, Private Jeep
Trek by Camping
Day 01: Drive from Kathmandu to Lamabagar, 9-10 Hrs
Day 02: Trek from Lamabagar to Rock Camp, 4-5 Hrs
Day 03: Trek from Rock Camp to Lumnan, 5-6 Hrs
Day 04: Trek from Lumnan to Thasing, 5-6 Hrs
Day 05: Trek from Thasing to LapcheGomba, 3-4 Hrs
Day 06: Exploring Milarepa Cave and Around, 6-7 Hrs
Day 07: Exploring Milarepa Cave and Lapchi Valley
Day 08: Trek from LapcheGomba to Lumnan, 6-7 Hrs
Day 09: Trek from Lumnan to Lamabagar 7 and 1/2 Hrs – 8 and 1/2 Hrs
Day 10: Drive from Lamabagar to Kathmandu, 9-10 Hrs
Day 01: Drive from Kathmandu to Lamabagar, 9-10 Hrs
Many trekkers do the journey to Lamabagar in one hit to save on the hassles of rebooking onward transport in Charikot, Singati on public buses. Under the Rolwaling Valley Trek, the road heads through Dolakha Chariot, Singati, Gonggarkhola, Chhetchhet and Lamabagar. Just keep thinking about that fabulous valley ahead and that will wash away all the experience of the road journey to be enjoyed or endured today. Take a few positives from this joyful ride; it cuts out lots of hot, sweaty uphill and knee-grinding downhill, saving your legs for the best. From Chhetchhet, the road climbs dramatically up the narrow waterfall-decked canton to Lamabagar, 2,100m. The river here is raided and occupies a wider, open but steep-sided valley. It’s rapidly changing shape is due to the large new Upper Tama Koshi dam hydro projects. The peak of Rising towers far ahead is dominating the east of the once forbidden lands.Overnight stay in Lamabagar.
Day 02: Trek from Lamabagar to Rock Camp, 4-5 Hrs
Dawn brings the usual early morning crowing of the roosters and the chirping of birds just another day in the Himalaya. The next few hours are a rollercoaster of hairy trails, overhangs and a path that clings to the cliff face with and uncertainty that only the demons could have envisaged. The route leaves old Lamabagar along the dam access road for30mins to a check post. There is a route over the new Upper Koshi Dam on the left side, passing a tunnel, to the base area where a precarious metal ladder leads to the top of the vast new concrete wall. It’s possible to walk beside the river to a very hairy and rusting narrow, long suspension bridge across the Tama Koshi. If you look down to the swirling waters, you feel very unbalanced in the middle of this bridge without stabilizing wires. But if you don’t look down, you might trip over your feet. An easy stroll follows along the east bank, lulling one into a sense of peace and harmony.
The next 400-500m is a bit scary, as the route is along wooden poles supported by a wooden structure lashed against the cliff. As soon as this exciting offering concludes, the trail climbs steeply on a rough path. After a corner, graced by a sheer drop into the roaring torrent the route heads into a small side ravine. Once over bluff and stream, the path soon offers a dramatic view southwards. Across this narrow chasm is the side valley of the ChyaduKhola, dogged by the Kukur Raja Danda high on its northern side. Kukur Raja just happens to mean dog king a strange name for a ridge.
Again the trail climbs very steeply under some prayer flags to and obvious topside point. By now it might have taken 3-4 hours just to get here. Lamabagar is still almost in sight. For the next 45 mins, the path descends, sometimes on steps, but the exposure is significant in places. It’s cooler, peaceful and infinitely absorbing in the beautiful cloud forest here, where birdlife and reclusive beasts lurk. The morning may be longer than planned but the afternoon is short. The easy, undulating trail winds through the forest for only 30-40mins to Rock Camp. Due to the lack of any other flat camp area, for the next 4 hours, we were ensconced here below an overhanging rock with barely room for few tents.Overnight stay at Rock Camp.
Day 03: Trek from Rock Camp to Lumnan, 5-6 Hrs
The valley continues to disclose its secrets only to those who dare to venture along its exposed and crumbling overgrown paths. Forest remains the dominant feature of the walk, with only fleeting views on offer and then only the lower rampart of elusive peaks.
The route immediately crosses the Tama Koshi on the new bridge and climbs. It’s a tough start to the day but soon enough the descent begins towards a white chorten seen ahead in the misty, goblinesque gloom of the trees. From a break in the canopy to the east, a view of Godachadi and Gauri Shankar looming above the MahadevKhola canyon appears. On the satellite images, this canyon appears to continue into Tibet and the historic settlement of Rongshar. The trekking is tough because the poor trial is not used much; however, the forest hides delights to keep the passing visitor’s interest. Monkeys, langurs and screeching birds are common. Also watch for the beehives on the cliffs across the foaming, angry river. Red pandas are another species sheltering deep in the forests almost nothing disturbs the eerie peace. Soon there is a waterfall where rainbows lay short life in the sunlight. Just before a lonely building seen across the river which was the Lama’s retreat, is accessed by a poor bridge further up. There is significant bend in the valley now as the trail climbs on. To the southeast is the snowy ridge of the RolwalinHimal, the long west ridge of Gauri Shankar. Finally the path breaks free of the forest-thank to Gods and crosses a meadow with a view of the Lumnan Monastery ahead. The side stream of the Kham Khola needs care to negotiate and then the way is much more open and tantalizing.Overnight stay in Lumnan.
Day 04: Trek from Lumnan to Thasing, 5-6 Hrs
The surprise of the day is how far it is until you can see round the next corner. Superb waterfalls in the main river are the star turn and so are the yak herders who have maintained their ancient migratory lifestyles.
There is always threatening to expose some new peak or fabulous view point. There is an amazing hanging valley on the east side where sheer cliffs continue to hide the delights of rising Peak. It shows just its lowest snow slope. After a wooden bridge over the lower ThopakhapaKhola, the trees become more alpine with larch, juniper and blue pine. The Plunging Lapchekhola is painted with tremendous waterfalls one after another for a long stretch now. It’s another tantalizing stage with the view threatening to open. Suddenly, a stepladder blocks the path then a settlement appears ahead. The stepladder keeps the herders’ animals.
Thanchhemu (3,200m) is great lunch spot or camp 3 hours from Lumnan. As winter approaches, the herders bring their animals to graze lower down here to Thanchhemu. Above Thanchhemu, the PurkumKhola is the only not interruption when the path crosses this side stream. The trail climbs steadily to an open meadow with a mani wall. Later is the meadow and shelters at Tarahlemu then the ridges of a serrated spire appear along here; Thasing (3,500m) is another collection of temporary looking stone houses with a few residents. All are Tibetan looking in dress and there is a lively bunch which adds to the enjoyment of the afternoon’s rest. Those with energy can climb 10mins up the hillside to the west of the settlement to glimpse the dolomite looking ridge to the northeast, but no other peak will show up.Overnight stay in Thasing.
Day 05: Trek from Thasing to LapcheGomba, 3-4 Hrs
The grand finale to the trek up the LapcheKhola is the exciting approach to the mystical retreat of Milarepa. The trail continues to entice with equal measures of delight and horror (at those rarer exposed areas). Keep faith with the great Buddhist saga’s memory and all will be well. At day’s end, is the object of all the anticipation.
The route climbs from Thasing but not too abruptly on a full breakfast. The side valley of the Thalungkhola is crossed on an okey bridge within 15minutes. Camping areas are found beyond ythis with a great view down the valley of the unknown peak, nominally called Lapche Peak for want of its proper name. Its shapely summit spire and snow-covered northwest ridge are visible to best effect. A glacier also drapes its eastern side. The trail finally crosses to the east bank and climbs steadily through wispy woodlands of juniper and stunted rhododendron. There is a glimpse of the Upper Lapche Monastery ahead, set on a barren flattish-topped, rocky mountain. Its face is dissected by endless chasms and dark ravines but this is no home to demons; they have been vanquished by Milarepa.
The trial continues with the sweet smelling trees before descending to the river. The route crosses a wooden bridge to the west bank here and begins a steep zigzagging ascent,and then about 15 mins up is a junction where we go right to a viewpoint. From viewpoint, the whole mystical face of Lapche erupts as the monastery and the various hermitages, retreats and Upper monasteries are revealed. The path drops down and then crosses the river on a tiny bridge. Finally here is the last stage, up of course, a brief but climb to Lapche Monastery (3,800m). Overnight stay in LapcheGompa.
Day 06: Exploring Milarepa Cave and Around, 6-7 Hrs
Side Trip: ChoraGhephel Ling Monastery, Milarepa Lower Cave shrine, Lapche Valley
ChoraGhephel Ling Monastery belongs to the more obscure Drigung-Kagyu-pa sect. Its original incarnation dates back to the golden age of the revival of Buddhism in the 10th and 11th centuries at the time of RinchenSangpo. Before entering there, are the usual four guardians plus two figures on Guru Rinpoche on horses, Guru Rinpoche and his vehicle the flying tiger, black-faced ogre, two stupas and the star, Milarepa. Inside, the main characters are from left to right: Guru Rinpoche, Buddha, Milarepa in the centre, Buddha and DorjeePhakmo. Other interlopers could not be defined but are some of the Dripung-pa icons. One is probably KyobpaJigtenSumgon, the founder of the Drigung sect. There are many books on the left wall and many old paintings on the entry wall. The right side hosts some figures, but much is plain. The head lama spends the winter here, but most retreat down the valley to warmer climes.
Milarepa Lower Cave shrine is the main lower cave shrine barely 5 mins from the north wall of the main monastery. Head into the dead end canyon where large overhanging rock are arranged by nature’s hand around a small clearing decked out with prayer flags. The Tibetan poet’s cave is up to the right to the newish buildings and gateway. The first building is fairly barren of interest, with a few thankas and photos of the Dalai Lama and two Drigung Kagyu-pa lamas but little else. It is intriguing dark space ahead that is the main attraction. Down a small dark passage and up some steps under a low rock ceiling is the small cave of the great sage. His stone image with hand to ear is set on a small alter along with the Green Tara on his left and Buddha on his right.
Trip to Lapche Valley would be shame, having come so far into unknown territory, not to explore around the next corner. However at the moment, the two valleys that lead to Tibet are off limits to foreigners and locals other than the herders/traders. However, it’s fine to hike up to Lapche village and possibly southwest, up the valley towards some snowy crags.
The walk takes around 20-30mins from the monastery area. The trail is clear and it is not a taxing ascent. En route is the head lama’s helipad. LapcheVallage (3,900m) has round twenty stone houses but they are more with tin roofing. In the centre is a small Gompa with a black prayer wheel inside. Nearby is mani rock. The village gives a good view of the hidden valley to the southwest where three minor new peaks are seen.Overnight stay in lapcheGompa.
Day 07: Exploring Milarepa Cave and Lapchi Valley
Milarepa Upper Cave Retreat; the second of the chapels is the main one and inside are a superb golden image of Buddha and a golden stupa. Behind them is cave recess with a white striped stupa. The Dalai Lama is present with a red-hated lama on each side and there are some colorful thankas. The footprint of Tseringma is located somewhere up here; she is also called DorjeePhakmo.
This is quite a tough pull uphill for around 2-3 hours unless well acclimatized to the altitude. It is best done on second day on day off. The path climbs over the hill behind the monastery to the viewpoint and then up round the very large rock near some shelters. It’s a scruffy ill-defined path that needs concentration not meditation. Prickly bushes and Berbers try to block the way but in 30 mins, the path reaches a junction. Go left and climb on the less steep and better trail. The monastic building located on the large outcrop is now below so that’s a relief. Passing mani walls is fine path that leads to the two buildings of the cave Gompa. Above is the retreat of the second monks.Overnight stay in LapcheGompa.
Day 08: Trek from LapcheGomba to Lumnan, 6-7 Hrs
After the excitement of the arrival and exploration of the high valley, it’s all downhill from here. Before leaving, check out the big white stupa on the west of the path. It can be accessed a couple of minutes down from the houses by the main Gompa.
The trial drops to the bridge and climbs to the exit prayer flag viewpoint. Then it’s down the steep zigzag path to the bridge to the east bank of the LapcheKhola. Down through the forest and cross to the west bank now and on down to Thasing, Thanhhemu (about 4 hours) and eventually Lumnan, (about 2 hours) from Lunch at Thanchhemu.Overnight stay in Lumnan.
Day 09: Trek from Lumnan to Lamabagar 7 and 1/2 Hrs – 8 and 1/2 Hrs
The long march down to Lamabagar keeps trekkers on their toes, but little else disturbs the timeless forest and quiet solitude of the valley. From Lumnan, the path soon enters the forest zone and all thoughts of big peaks are gone. The route turns the long corner below the dog-eat-dog Kukur Raja ridge to the Lunch meadow. Then it’s another scary section own to the blue railings. Be sure to look up for a glimpse of the west walls of Gauri Shankar. After climb around a high bluff, the rock camp is as good as any place for a late picnic.
Now begins the last stage after the big drop down to the Tama Koshi canyon. There is that short but steep uphill stages to climb after the KhareniKhola. Take care on the exposed, demon trial along the sheer cliffs and drop thankfully to the riverbed. With only that wonky bridge to negotiate it’s time for rejoice, or meditate for the return of a calm state after the last hour’s machinations. Beyond the dam,Lamabagar is at hand.Overnight stay in Lamabagar.
Day 10: Drive from Lamabagar to Kathmandu, 9-10 Hrs
After the scary path out of paradise, it’s time for the scary road back to reality as we know it in Kathmandu or perhaps to continue to the trek into the Rolwaling Valley or on to BiguGompa.
T-house Trek /Camping includes accommodation in lodge/tent, guide, porters and all meals
USD …. per person on twin sharing
Note:
Single room supplement charge is applicable for Kathmandu Hotel only. During trek, as per the availability we shall provide single/double or dormitory room. In case of special requirement, we shall provide single with an additional room surcharge during trek.
• Airport Pick and Drop by private vehicle
• 3 nights’ accommodation at 3 star hotels in Kathmandu on twin/double sharing with breakfast
• Guide sightseeing tour in Kathmandu with inclusive of monuments entry fees.
• Accommodation during trek available everyday en-route (T-House and Hotel)
• All meals during trek in Local Lodge (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner)
• English speaking local expert guide (ratio: – 2 guide: 4/5 member, 3 guide: 10/15 member)
• Local porters during trek (ratio: – 1 porter = 2 member)
• Gaurishankar Conservation Area permits fees
• Trekkers’ Information Management System fees (TIMS)
• Ground transportation/Airport transfers with an escort by Private Vehicle/tourist bus
• Equipment clothing for porter & staffs
• Insurance for all staff & porters
• All applicable government tax
• Nepal visa – Multiple Entrée 30 days – USD 40
• International flight
• Lunch & dinner during Kathmandu Hotel stay
• Extra baggage charges (All together only 15 kg is allow for porter)
• Personal gears & clothing (available on hire in Kathmandu)
• Tips for guides, porter, any expenses incurred in emergency evacuation/road block due to any reason, table drinks, snacks while walking
• Any other tours, transfer and service other than mentioned above
• Your insurance and medical Expenses